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@Roberto_Cavalli is in advanced talks to sell a majority stake in his eponymous fashion house to London-based buyout firm #Permira in a sale worth about 450 million euros ($621 million). 


#Cavalli’s managerial structure has recently been weakened by the departure of Chief Executive Officer Gianluca Brozzetti and Chief Operating Officer Carlo Di Biagio in January.

#Permira, whose investments stretch from Fish Fingers in Britain to insecticides in Japan, has a strong appetite for fashion brands, having backed Italian haute couture brand @MaisonValentino [a 5,3 billion-euro buy-out in 2007 at the retirement of Mr. Valentino Garavani]. It still has a controlling stake in German fashion house Hugo Boss and earlier this year secured control of British footwear brand Dr. Martens for 300 million pounds ($500 million).

Bankers familiar with the situation have valued #Cavalli at around 450 million euros, based on a multiple of 15 times earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) of 25 million euros for 2013. That would exceed @Versace’s valuation, which came in at 14.5 times EBITDA, but fall short of the 31.5 multiple that #Qatar’s royal family sovereign wealth #Mayhoola fund paid to buy Valentino from Permira in 2012 for 600 million euros.

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@Roberto_Cavalli is in advanced talks to sell a majority stake in his eponymous fashion house to London-based buyout firm #Permira in a sale worth about 450 million euros ($621 million).


#Cavalli’s managerial structure has recently been weakened by the departure of Chief Executive Officer Gianluca Brozzetti and Chief Operating Officer Carlo Di Biagio in January.

#Permira, whose investments stretch from Fish Fingers in Britain to insecticides in Japan, has a strong appetite for fashion brands, having backed Italian haute couture brand @MaisonValentino [a 5,3 billion-euro buy-out in 2007 at the retirement of Mr. Valentino Garavani]. It still has a controlling stake in German fashion house Hugo Boss and earlier this year secured control of British footwear brand Dr. Martens for 300 million pounds ($500 million).

Bankers familiar with the situation have valued #Cavalli at around 450 million euros, based on a multiple of 15 times earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) of 25 million euros for 2013. That would exceed @Versace’s valuation, which came in at 14.5 times EBITDA, but fall short of the 31.5 multiple that #Qatar’s royal family sovereign wealth #Mayhoola fund paid to buy Valentino from Permira in 2012 for 600 million euros.

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Thursday Apr 17  

 
 

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“La Belle Époque”
@DORHOUT_MEES #SS14 

#Dutch #DorhoutMees 
#9thcenturypoetry #greatgrandmother #love #friendship 

#modediplomatique

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“La Belle Époque”
@DORHOUT_MEES #SS14 

#Dutch #DorhoutMees
#9thcenturypoetry #greatgrandmother #love #friendship

#modediplomatique

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Thursday Apr 17  2 notes

 
 

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4e présence @FestivalCannes avec #Mommy en selection officielle. Aujourd’hui, #Montreal, #Quebec et #Canada s’inclinent @XavierDolan #25ans #Fier #XavierDolan #FestivaldeCannes

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4e présence @FestivalCannes avec #Mommy en selection officielle. Aujourd’hui, #Montreal, #Quebec et #Canada s’inclinent @XavierDolan #25ans #Fier #XavierDolan #FestivaldeCannes

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Thursday Apr 17  1 note

 
 

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Architecture, Androgyny, Arte ..



@AGATADELLATORRE 
#AGATADIMASTERNAK 
#BONAKIM 
@CLAUDIALIGARI 


#IUDe #Torino #IndependentUpcomingDesigners #PrincipidiPiemonte #April2014 

#AgataDellaTorre #AgatadiMasternak [@WorldMcqueen + #GarethPugh]  #BonaKim #ClaudiaLigari #upcoming #designers #stilisti #Turin #Italy #Poland #SouthKorea 


#MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

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Architecture, Androgyny, Arte ..

@AGATADELLATORRE
#AGATADIMASTERNAK
#BONAKIM
@CLAUDIALIGARI


#IUDe #Torino #IndependentUpcomingDesigners #PrincipidiPiemonte #April2014 

#AgataDellaTorre #AgatadiMasternak [@WorldMcqueen + #GarethPugh] #BonaKim #ClaudiaLigari #upcoming #designers #stilisti #Turin #Italy #Poland #SouthKorea


#MODEDIPLOMATIQUE

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Wednesday Apr 16  1 note

 
 

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THE NEW HTTP://MODEDIPLOMATIQUE.COM IS LIVE!



WITH #MEDIACTIVEGROUP #MEDIACTIVENETWORK 


BRANDNEWHEIGHTS_04_04_2014 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE #GLOBALFASHIONRESTRICTED  #CHRISTINEDEVIERSJONCOUR #RICHARDCHAI #PREMIERECLASSE #HANAABENABDESSLEM #DANIELMANZINI #DENISBINET #PAULMONTGOMERYSTUDIO #EDUN #SOPHIETHEALLET #SARAHSBAG #ROLANDOSANTANA #SADWALLI #DIANEPERNET #YSL #TSOLOMUNKH AND #FRANKIEKNUCKLES

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THE NEW HTTP://MODEDIPLOMATIQUE.COM IS LIVE!

WITH #MEDIACTIVEGROUP #MEDIACTIVENETWORK


BRANDNEWHEIGHTS_04_04_2014 #MODEDIPLOMATIQUE #GLOBALFASHIONRESTRICTED #CHRISTINEDEVIERSJONCOUR #RICHARDCHAI #PREMIERECLASSE #HANAABENABDESSLEM #DANIELMANZINI #DENISBINET #PAULMONTGOMERYSTUDIO #EDUN #SOPHIETHEALLET #SARAHSBAG #ROLANDOSANTANA #SADWALLI #DIANEPERNET #YSL #TSOLOMUNKH AND #FRANKIEKNUCKLES

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Friday Apr 4  2 notes

 
 


MILANO MODA DONNA a/i 2014-2015 | QUATTRO DONNE​ | BY ALESSANDRO CALASCIBETTA



Redazione di Amica, h12.00 a.m. del 19 febbraio; il direttore, Emanuela Testori, ha fretta. La MFW comincia oggi “Per di più piove, chissà che traffico…ma prima voglio vedere il numero di marzo stampato!!! Allora, quando arriva?

Ne approfitto, mi faccio raccontare le tendenze principali della stagione in corso; Testori mi fa vedere gli impaginati sul PC e – insieme – concordiamo le foto del numero con gli spunti più rappresentativi. Ne scegliamo quattro dal servizio di apertura, che non a caso si intitola “New Rules”. Il barocco di “Dolce & Gabbana: il gold-richness minimalizzato grazie a un grooming leggero. La gonna a ruota di “Versace che rimanda agli anni ’60 – “il periodo più bello per la moda femminile” – e poi le stampe. Le stampe prese dall’arte di “Prada e quelle di origine sportiva di “Pucci: il “city-sport” introdotto da Tisci per “Givenchy ha funzionato.

La top “Ruby Aldridge è un’interprete perfetta: da minimal a sexy (guardate le espressioni per giudicare la sensualità di una donna, non cercate per forza il nudo e tanto seno), da sportiva a chic.

#Quattrotendenze #quattrostili #quattropersonalità.

Quattro donne in una.

Foto by Driu+Tiago | Styling Paolo Turina


ALESSANDRO CALASCIBETTA



image


ALESSANDRO CALASCIBETTA has been active in fashion since the late 80s. He started off his career at L’Uomo Vogue, after that with Mondo Uomo. Afterward, he became fashion director at Harper’s Bazaar Uomo, and in 2000 founded Uomo which he directed until 2003. Following that, he started collaborating with Rizzoli for Il Mondo, Io Donna, Max and Style Magazine as a Man Fashion Director.


At MODE DIPLOMATIQUE, we asked him to weight in on the most wanted fashion for .. women.


Son carnet dandy, THE MEN ISSUE est ingénieux et vivant.

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Wednesday Feb 19  1 note

 
 

NEW YORK FASHION WEAK | L’OPEN ED 

New York Fashion Weak: What does it mean being a “classy woman?”The few are the classy.Women keep hearing over and over from any decent men with taste (in different situations) that they want to be in the company of classy women.Take a first glance at most of the women’s collections in New York this season, and you will see that practically all of them gents want to meet a woman who has “class.” in the fall winter 2014 2015 season ahead.Indeed, being called “classy” is an ultimate compliment to a woman.But, what does it really mean being classy? I mean punk-y can be classy as much as victorian can be punk-y. It’s all in the zest. What Fashion editors and pr fashion house keep flooding us with: “effortless” ..I call it P.A.N.A.C.H.E.Panache is a rebellion in the canons of bon ton, accordingly to aesthetics. Remember the last Madonna thugs’ look. No no. Age wise. Fashion wise.French invented it: le ridicule tue.So, after searching the runways of New York for the answer, I wasn’t very satisfied, because every attempt to define a “classy woman” had one fundamental flaw – a woman can have all the qualities that make her classy according to these designers and still not to have much “class.” Perhaps, Max Azria’s Fur Fury chez BCBG got close in day one, still it felt mademoiselle-esque. Not for Dietrich it, and Grace’s.Being in minimalistic, clean, and not using taste profanities are certainly qualities that flatter to a style, but if offish… they hardly make you come across as having “class”.The duo chez Helmut Lang attempted a tour de force for their second collection. It was all “MinimaLustic”. Lust seems to be the new street edge, steering from the burly to the bdsm-y. That New Yorkaise does not talk too much and constantly avoids attention to her persona. Yes. Quietly loud.Class is a sense of fashion in an integral part of style.So why are we then in New York for fashion week? Because feminine demeanor and manners matter. Injected these in clothes is what we look for. The “unique” and “effortless” mottos are so roué, dear tastemakers. Alas, ladies, New York in this fall 2014 is morose.Yet, we are not done; maybe a fashion beat away from .. Class.Might Ralph Lauren save the rest of this weak week ..L’ÉDITOR


NEW YORK FASHION WEAK | L’OPEN ED



New York Fashion Weak: What does it mean being a “classy woman?”

The few are the classy.

Women keep hearing over and over from any decent men with taste (in different situations) that they want to be in the company of classy women.

Take a first glance at most of the women’s collections in New York this season, and you will see that practically all of them gents want to meet a woman who has “class.” in the fall winter 2014 2015 season ahead.

Indeed, being called “classy” is an ultimate compliment to a woman.

But, what does it really mean being classy? I mean punk-y can be classy as much as victorian can be punk-y. It’s all in the zest. What Fashion editors and pr fashion house keep flooding us with: “effortless” ..

I call it P.A.N.A.C.H.E.

Panache is a rebellion in the canons of bon ton, accordingly to aesthetics. Remember the last Madonna thugs’ look. No no. Age wise. Fashion wise.

French invented it: le ridicule tue.

So, after searching the runways of New York for the answer, I wasn’t very satisfied, because every attempt to define a “classy woman” had one fundamental flaw – a woman can have all the qualities that make her classy according to these designers and still not to have much “class.” Perhaps, Max Azria’s Fur Fury chez BCBG got close in day one, still it felt mademoiselle-esque. Not for Dietrich it, and Grace’s.

Being in minimalistic, clean, and not using taste profanities are certainly qualities that flatter to a style, but if offish… they hardly make you come across as having “class”.

The duo chez Helmut Lang attempted a tour de force for their second collection. It was all “MinimaLustic”. Lust seems to be the new street edge, steering from the burly to the bdsm-y. That New Yorkaise does not talk too much and constantly avoids attention to her persona. Yes. Quietly loud.

Class is a sense of fashion in an integral part of style.

So why are we then in New York for fashion week? Because feminine demeanor and manners matter. Injected these in clothes is what we look for. The “unique” and “effortless” mottos are so roué, dear tastemakers. Alas, ladies, New York in this fall 2014 is morose.

Yet, we are not done; maybe a fashion beat away from .. Class.

Might Ralph Lauren save the rest of this weak week ..

L’ÉDITOR

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Monday Feb 10  2 notes

 
 


PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15 | SAD WALLI TALKS TO MODE DIPLOMATIQUE



“Sad Walli is an intimate novel reinterpreting historical architecture in an idyllic place” explained the designer right after the show. When I first met him I’ve been impressed by his genuine and authentic passion for his work, particularly that day I asked him to explain what SAD WALLI meant to him.

The idea of conceiving an entire line as a journey through memory and past, not just as a simple book could do, but imaging a palais in which are intersected centuries, styles, aesthetics and cultures was such an embrace. While I was listening, I’ve instantly felt as those years when I used to spend hours devouring ancient myth books and epic novels, terribly fascinated by Greek tragedies.

SAD WALLI comes from the the creative and volcanic mind of Walidi Saidi, Paris based designer whose roots lie in Algeria (such a good start for a fashion designer, as Yves Saint Laurent docet). He minds his collections on the most diverse aesthetic codes thanks to his mélange culturel. The minimal and geometric silhouettes owe their construction to several and mostly ancient architectural elements, re-contextualized by a meticulous study on modern fabrics and avant-garde patterns. The result are beautifully clean-cut tailored garments, refined by sophisticated fluidity.

Walid literally builds his brand as a novel, a medieval tale, filled with cultural references and visual inspirations, mainly influenced by architectural studies. Chapter by chapter we are invited to discover his palace’s interior. That’s why each collection is effectively called Room.

Church" is the main gate to the following seasons. This FW 2013 first launched collection is an ode to the French architecture, particularly focused on the complexity of French Gothic architecture. Flow cuts and flexible pieces, a strong chemistry between contemporary shapes and noble fabrics, that’s how SAD WALLI defined his style.

For the SS 2014 we get into Room I, directly inspired by the greatness of mitteleuropean medieval architecture. The season interweaves the melancholic pureness of the tension toward the divine to the cathedrals’ games of shadows, creating a perfect alchemy between history and modernity.

This January he launched his third collection during the Men’s Saison Masculine 2014/15 in Paris. Room II ENDERS gazes at the Middle East Islamic cultures, focusing on modular structures and the Arabian mosques’ walls enriched by precious mosaics.

Decoration certainly is the story main-character. In primis the designer embellished the sophisticated digital printed silk scarves, which caught the attention warn as long and delicate sleeves. Then he manipulated arabian featuring patterns to adorn the warrior-like long zipped coat as well as t-shirts backsides, mostly overlaid on knee-length tunics, one of his trademarks. Sleeveless blazers emboldened by big and square shoulders and collarless shirts enriched by impeccably designed pleats completed the collection. Walid’s bold decontextualization totally defined a cutting-edge subtle elegance.

Dandified tailoring codes are tipped over this season. Such a shame, SAD WALLI remains a menswear designer. I am debating to dress like a man once for good.

Chapter after chapter.

BIANCA DEMARIA

Lensed by Philippe-Olivier Amany

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Monday Jan 27  1 note

 
 


AMSTERDAM | MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK | Fall 2014 | L.ROUSSEAU



URBAN CUT-UP

Suggestions coming from the urban architectures and natural world, optical visions, an aesthetics inspired by the digital word and a famous videogame, the Tetris, joining different volumes and patterns by using the cut-up, celebrated literary technique by William Burroughs which finds today a new context in fashion, resulting from the over- whelming creativity by Lucia Rousseau, feature in “Urban cut-up”, the Fall/Winter 2014-2015 capsule collection she made.

An idea, the cut-up, which cuts and mixes elements and imageries to create a new idea of femininity and new visions - enhancing the urban element -, successfully made concrete by a smashing play of cuts, mix of shapes that are over with other ones that are under the sign of sartorialism and give rise to the idea of over sensuality.

It’s a dialogue between tradition and innovation, emphasizing an assertive and contemporary femininity. The optical patterns, a leitmotiv of her work which embodies geometries celebrating to the art by Vaserely, join with themselves and are embodied in fun, colored prints. Sporty chic elements, skirts, trou- sers and over technical coats, combine with light, silk shirts, born to be genuine passe-partout. Lightness and structure are paradigms that are emphasized by the fabrics - cotton poplin, silk satin and Milano Stitch scuba diving - as well as by the palette of colors including bright shades of magenta, green blue, light blue and black combined in the catchy prints and refined sartorial details.

Lucia Rousseau begins her education as industrial designer at the Politechnical School of Turin, where she explores the facets of a tridimensional design, which evolves into fashion when she moves to Istituto Marangoni in Milan, from where she graduates with honours in 2010.Before in 2008, she interned at maison Aquilano.Rimondi.

In summer 2010, after her degree in fashion design, she realizes a Menswear project which allows her to reach the finale of the international contest Roberto Cavalli 40th anniversary contest. This initiative leaded her to make her collections appreciated in Qatar and Kazakhstan, where her first capsule collection is produced for an emerging Kazakh brand. Summer 2011, she went further in participating to the Max Mara Contest For Young Designers, for which her capsule of ten outfits was selected amongst the best Max Mara for SportMax projects.

In October 2011 she’s among the 25 semifinalists of the 6th edition of NEXT GENERATION. Her capsule, considered among the best ones, enables her to exhibit her creations as new emerging designer during fashion week F/W 12.13 at Palazzo Giuresconsulti in Milan. She confirmed her talent showing her collection at the FASHION HUB of the Italian fashion week S/S 13 and at the fashion week 13.14, presenting her capsule during the fashion show organized at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION CLUB and having her creations on the catwalk at CONNECT4CLIMATE.

Her Spring Summer 2013 received great reviews both from Italian and foreign press, to an extent that she is invited to participate to the Warsaw Fashion Week in April 2013 with the contribution of Ambasciata Italiana.La Mode est Diplomatique !

From then she went on to the creative direction of Maliparmi for the Spring Summer 2014 presented in the calendar of Milano Moda Donna, which led to her inclusion by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in the Milano Moda Donna official calendar as L.ROUSSEAU.

The Fall Winter 2014 2015 URBAN CUT UP showed yesterday in Amsterdam was a musical feast with Frenchie Poetic Punk France de Griessen and Rock Guitarist François Maigret.

It was also a team spirited journey for which L.Rousseau thanked Mode Diplomatique correspondent in the Netherlands, photographer Giusy de Ceglia, the stylist Juan Velazquez Caceres, the ex-model and choreographer Mariana Verkerk and the producer Gianni Serra (Elledi Fashion S.A.S).

Lensed by Giusy de Ceglia

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Sunday Jan 26  1 note

 
 

PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15  | SAINT LAURENT 

COLLECTION XVARSITY COUTURE & 3 BUTTONS SIGNÉE HEDI SLIMANE ..


PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15 | SAINT LAURENT



COLLECTION X

VARSITY COUTURE & 3 BUTTONS SIGNÉE HEDI SLIMANE ..

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Sunday Jan 19  11 notes

 
 


PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15 | WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK



POLITICS. NOT PARIS.

CROSSED CROCODILES GROWL
WALTER’S MANIFESTO TO STOP RACISM: ‎لا للعنصرية !

pictures courtesy of GoRunway.com


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Thursday Jan 16  32 notes

 
 


PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15 | JULIEN DAVID + LUCIEN PELLAT-FINET



BIG IN JAPAN. BOTH ..

pictures courtesy of GoRunway.com

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Thursday Jan 16  

 
 


PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15 | HAIDER ACKERMANN



Only Lovers Left Alive ..

pictures courtesy of GoRunway.com

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Thursday Jan 16  2 notes

 
 


PARIS | MODE MASCULINE | SAISON AH 2014/15 | C A R V E N



Guillaume Henry is the Oscar Wilde.

Ample. Airy. Avid ..

pictures courtesy of GoRunway.com

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Thursday Jan 16  5 notes

 
 


BERLIN | HERBST WINTER 2014 KOLLEKTIONEN | LENA HOSCHEK



Dagmar Lassander-esque ..

For the coming autumn winter 2014 2015 season, the Austrian Lena Hoschek designed an impressive tribute to pin-up girls of the 50s in their water wave AirHair, red lips liebe and fingernails bravado. On the catwalk at Brandenburg Gate much elegant gray and wintry black was seen to metallic like gold and bronze tones and autumnal colors like orange and a bright red.
br/>On the shoulder gowns shimmered silver flower prints. A narrow sweater pencil skirt emphasized the waist. Then there was skin-tight sheath dresses, all over embroidered with sequins, knee-length skirts , super transparent blouses with applications in the form of large and small Polkadots, much delicate lace and many waist belts.

Hoschek laid a very feminine and above all, much more reduced, more mature collection.

The 24 year old founded her label in November 2005 in the old town of Graz. Her 2014 2015 nostalgic retro, rockabilly influenced designs which reference bombshells of the 40s, 50s and 60s and flatter the modern woman’s curves is a return to handmade, classic cuts and the .. Sanduhr-Silhouette. Brillant ..

pictures courtesy of GoRunway.com

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Wednesday Jan 15  189 notes